Right of Reply

The television cook and restaurateur responds to John Walsh's attack on celebrity chefs

JOHN WALSH'S article ("A real kitchen sink drama") appears to jump on the current bandwagon of knocking TV chefs. Walsh says: "The world of the TV chef is one of deadly competition, with no room for compromise."

Unfortunately, apart from a misquoted spat between Gary Rhodes and Delia Smith, the article fails to identify any argumentative TV chef.

I should point out that there is a difference between Michelin-starred chefs and TV chefs. All the infighting chefs Walsh named are the Michelin variety. Tom Aiken (Pied a Terre), Nico Ladenis (Chez Nico), Marco Pierre White (The Oakroom etc), and Michel Roux Jnr (Le Gavroche) have only a smattering of TV appearances between them.

The Michelin-driven chef is a breed apart, operating a temple of gastronomy, and desperately seeking his holy grail - three Michelin stars. This, I am sure, can create a certain degree of competitiveness, although I have yet to experience "the dyspeptic condemnation of their rivals". The Michelin chef is unique; please don't judge all chefs by the same yardstick.

TV chefs are a pretty laid-back bunch. We are not interested, for TV purposes, in creating Michelin-style food. Cooking should be fun, and should not be attempted if you are feeling uptight. No longer is it an essential chore; you should do it because you enjoy it. Supermarket HRMs (home replacement meals), ready-made meals to you and me, have taken away the drudgery of cooking. If you don't enjoy cooking, you just need a microwave oven.

Most TV chefs are good chums. Friendly rivalries exist, but I don't know anyone who jumps about just because Delia's got a new series. No, we are all quite civilised, and enjoy each other's company.