WINE BOX

THE WEEK'S BEST BUYS

**Chateau Lilian Ladouys 1995, St Estephe (pounds 14.49 Laytons)

**Chateau Ludon Pomies Agassac 1995, Haut Medoc (pounds 13.71 Laytons)

THERE are various ways to console oneself for the disappearance of great claret from the list of affordable wines. One is to emigrate to the New World. Another is to buy humdrum vintages (eg 1992-94) of good wines. But the best is to seek out lesser wines from fine vintages. Laytons (0171 388 4567) has a slew of them, hot off the presses, and these two are both beauties. Chateau LL is an inky cru bourgeois with a fine streak of earthy tarry blackcurrant fruit. Chateau LPA is the second wine of Chateau La Lagune, and has the soft, supple richness associated with that fine property. Both fantastic, different wines, and ample consolation for the unavailability of top-rank claret.