Move over, retinol: exosomes are coming for the skin-rejuvenation crown. The latest buzzword in the beauty industry, exosome treatments were once exclusive to premium in-clinic therapies or luxury serums with hefty price tags. However, this skincare innovation is finally affordable, thanks to the latest exosome serum from The Inkey List.

Exosomes are tiny particles released by cells, carrying proteins, lipids and genetic information. They act as messengers, signalling and stimulating surrounding cells to repair and rejuvenate.

Essentially, exosomes encourage older skin cells to act like younger ones. Exosomes can be extracted from plants, animals and, controversially, even people. They’re an exciting find for regenerative medicine because of their ability to help skin repair and heal.

That means that exosomes are increasingly popular for skin rejuvenation and are gaining popularity as part of in-clinic treatments. They are used in concentrated serums that are applied over areas targeted during laser or micro-needling procedures. The idea is that exosomes’ regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties enhance the skin’s natural repair process, stimulating collagen production and speeding up healing time.

Exosomes are usually found in skincare products for at-home use, but until recently, these came with eye-watering price tags. Dr Barbara Sturm’s exo-metic face serum is a whopping £430 for 30ml (Harrods.com). However, I was very excited when I heard The Inkey List is launching a £20 formulation.

The Inkey List’s exosome serum promises to deliver radiance, firmness, resurfacing and hydration in as little as 14 days, but does it deliver?

While fans of the brand have been eagerly putting their names on the waitlist to get their hands on the new formula, I was lucky enough to test it before the official launch, so I can bring you my honest thoughts. Keep scrolling for my full review and verdict.

How I tested

A pea-sized amount of the serum is enough to cover the face and neck (Sabine Wiesel)

I put this new formula to the test for three weeks as part of both my morning and evening skincare routines. I paired the product with a hydrating moisturiser that doesn’t have any glow-boosting actives, so there was no skin-brightening help from other formulas in the mix.

For context, I have normal to dry skin, but it’s been going through periods of sensitivity, which you can see in the red blotches on my make-up-free ‘before’ picture. I’m in my 40s, so uneven dullness, skin tone and fine lines are key skin concerns I’m always looking to improve.

Why you can trust IndyBest reviews

Sabine Wiesel is a beauty journalist who specialises in reviewing anti-ageing products and those aimed at mature skin. Having reviewed everything from the best neck creams to the retinol eye creams, she is well-versed in finding the best value products that actually make an impact.

The Inkey List exosome hydro-glow complex

Size : 30ml

Fragrance-free: Yes

Vegan : Yes

Key ingredients : Cica exosome, prickly pear extract, kollaren, hyaluronic acid, ectoin, Q10 and peptides

Why we love it

Super hydrating

Soothes sensitivity and redness

Boosts radiance

Suitable for all skin types (even sensitive)

Take note

You only need a pea-sized amount. It’s tempting to overuse for the instant glow but then it’s not cost-effective

Formula

The Inkey List claims that this formula is packed with 3 million plant-derived exosomes. The exosomes come from cica (Centella asiatica), a common hero ingredient in South Korean skincare.

Cica is packed with anti-inflammatories and antioxidants. It soothes and calms redness, inflammation and irritation and strengthens skin. It works on signs of ageing, too, potentially stimulating collagen production as it is rich in vitamins A, C and E. If that wasn’t enough, cica is incredibly moisturising, too.

The Inkey List says the tiny exosomes in its latest product can penetrate deeper into the skin, carrying active ingredients to skin cells for superior efficacy compared to traditional serums. This is exciting cosmetic science, and I imagine we’ll see other skincare brands following suit in the not-too-distant future.

This formula also uses hyaluronic acid and ectoin for extra hydration. There’s Q10 for antioxidant protection, peptides for improved firmness and prickly pear (O. ficus-indica) flower extract for smoother skin.

Application

The exosome hydro-glow complex comes with an easy-to-use pump applicator to ensure you never waste any of the formula. A pea-sized amount of the silky, lightweight formula (around two pumps) is all you need to cover the face and neck.

Before and after The Inkey List exosome hydro-glow complex — I saw lessened redness and sensitivity after just one use (Sabine Wiesel )

The product should be applied after cleanser and before moisturiser, but I found it so instantly hydrating that I actually skipped moisturiser on some days. It’s a testament to how well The Inkey List’s product delivers hydration - I always use moisturiser because my skin is on the drier side.

The result

This formula promises to reduce inflammation and improve skin repair in as little as eight hours, and I can honestly say it lessened redness and sensitivity. It was noticeable from the first use, and the results improved every day.

I’m equally impressed with the excellent hydration in this serum. I pushed a luxury hydrating serum aside while testing this product, and I won’t be going back to it. The Inkey List’s complex left my skin much softer, even without moisturiser.

Does it deliver that post-facial look? Not quite. It leaves skin glowing, and it perked up my dull skin with time, but I won’t be breaking up with my facialist any time soon.

I’m going to have to test it for much longer to comment on its skin-toning and firming claims. However, my skin barrier feels stronger and less delicate after just three weeks.

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The verdict: The Inkey List exosome hydro-glow complex

There is no doubt that exosomes are going to be the next big thing in at-home routines. The Inkey List has outdone itself with this multi-action serum. In just three weeks, it’s improved my compromised skin, boosted my hydration levels and brought back some vibrancy.

Such innovation is usually restricted to prestige brands, so I’m impressed that the brand has found a way to offer it at such a low price.

It’s a bold claim, but this is arguably the best budget serum I’ve ever tried. That’s a big call - I’m usually a serum snob and prefer to spend more money on this step of my skincare routine. I can’t wait to see how well it fares with continued use.

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The Inkey List’s new product is the ‘best budget serum I’ve ever tried’

In-clinic and home exosomes treatments are pricey, but this treatment costs just £20