Wild Cooking, By Richard Mabey
Thirty-five years after his Food for Free, Mabey has produced an accompanying cookbook. The wait was worth it for such a literate and imaginative work.
As well as urging us to make the most of summer gluts ("Reinvent the recurring vegetables with a knife"), he urges us to snaffle the waste caused by mechanised harvesting: "vegetable road kill". Mabey's English cassoulet, with Cumberland sausage and neck of lamb fillets, sounds a tempting possibility, as does his Peking Duck made with "an old fan heater".
With "as large morels as you can buy or find", a recipe for stuffed morels demands either a fat wallet or Mabey's knowledge of the countryside. A jelly, allegedly invented by Benjamin Britten, flavoured with black treacle, lemon juice and sherry, is more practicable, if a bit odd: "an almost meaty savour".
Subscribe to Independent Premium to bookmark this article
Want to bookmark your favourite articles and stories to read or reference later? Start your Independent Premium subscription today.
Join our commenting forum
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
Comments