London Fashion Week: anarchy, androgyny and retro Americana

Everything you need to know from day two of the AW17 shows

Sarah Young
Sunday 19 February 2017 02:52 GMT
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Gareth Pugh Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show
Gareth Pugh Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show (Press Association)

Day two and the fash pack are really getting in to the swing of things.

From fledgling talents at Fashion East to homecomings at Ports 1961 and Donatella¹s supermodel extravaganza, London Fashion Week seriously kicked it up a notch today.

Gareth Pugh

It might have been the penultimate show of the day but Gareth Pugh's new season collection made the biggest impact of them all.

Gareth Pugh AW17 (Press Association)

As relentless looping samples of Donald Trump hailing "Build that wall" and snippets of Hendrix, Queen, Nirvana and Madonna sound, models sashayed through the concrete apertures with troubling ferocity.

Bug-eyed and blacked-out, they seemed emotionless and wild.

Pugh described the collection as "an austere vision of a world on the precipice of anarchy" signalling the threat of radical extremism and the reigning of a self-confessed pussy grabber as his muse.

The clothes themselves consisted of strong, architectural silhouettes with pieces that resembled police riot gear, dusty combat boots, billowing trash bag silhouettes and officer hats with netted veils.

This collection tore at radicalism, anarchy and the commanding power of femininity.

House of Holland

Henry always designs with a London, cool-girl aesthetic in mind but this season, the designer looked to stateside gasoline girls and retro Americana.

House of Holland (Getty Images)

Entitled 'Daddy Where¹s My Car?', House of Holland presented a mish-mash of checkerboard prints, red white and blue stars, fringed flares and cowboy boots.

As always, this collection was all about wearable but adventurous pieces with sartorial staples elevated to a new, fun level.

Think oversized puffa jackets, mohair knits and girlish pink hoodies scripted with the word ŒBitches.

House of Holland (Getty Images)

Not to mention everyone¹s favourite cartoon bird, the screwball Woody Woodpecker. Unveiling a 15 piece throwback collection jackets, dresses, denim and footwear were all inspired by the retro caricature.

Designer Henry Holland presented cowboy-shirt-like dresses with fringes, flared trousers and plenty of colorful cowboy boots, also decorated with motifs such as stars and flames.

Versus Versace

The cooler, edgier sister line of Versace, Donatella had the Hadid girls at the front of her mind when creating this latest collection. The sisters, who both opened and closed the show, presented party-loving garb under stark bright strobe lights with a seriously androgynous edge.

Versus Versace (Getty Images)

In good company, the pair were joined by the likes of Adwoa Aboah and Taylor Hill parading military-esque two-pieces, cropped tops, low sling trousers, stomper boots and the word VERSUS emblazoned wherever feasible.

Aside from a spattering of colour, burgundy and electric blue, an all-black line-up of aviator jackets, leather skirts and racer-back mini dresses was extolled with greased-up, tousled bed-head hair.

J.W. Anderson

A designer known for his permutation of gender today¹s offering from Jonathan Anderson leached with femininity. The sharp silhouettes were there as always with clean, lean lines and square-cut toes but this time they were alleviated and livened up.

J.W.Anderson (Getty)

Draped jersey, ostrich-feather inserts, patchwork dresses and metallic chain mail tops offered a decadent spin with crystal embellishment and leather strap detailing really ramping up the edge.

This season, J.W. Anderson¹s aesthetic was more focused than ever before, sticking to the brand¹s signature deconstructed style but, just a little more put-together.

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