Ukrainian designer Frolov throws it back to the Noughties at London Fashion Week

Frolov’s designs have previously been worn by Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez and Dua Lipa – and there’s plenty for stars to choose from this season.

Frolov showed his autumn/winter 2024 collection at London Fashion Week (@itschrisyates/PA)

Frolov is fast becoming a highlight of the London Fashion Week (LFW) calendar.

Creative director Ivan Frolov runs his business from his hometown, Kyiv – last year, he was one of three designers to appear in the inaugural Ukrainian Fashion Week held in London, and he’s just shown his second solo collection at LFW.

This season, Frolov was inspired by his childhood memories holidaying in the Crimea – where he spent every summer until it was annexed in 2014.

The brand has become known its tight dresses with extreme heart cut-out detailing – recently seen in a bridal gown Jennifer Lopez wore in the Can’t Get Enough music video – but the autumn/winter 2024 collection moved away from this motif.

Clothes were still extremely sexy and seemed to be littered with Noughties references – think super short, low-waisted mini skirts with built-in thong straps and plenty of corsets.

Perhaps tapping into the current ‘mob wife’ trend that’s taking over TikTok, leopard prints permeated the collection – from major gown moments to mini dresses with matching gloves.

Frolov seemed to have a lot of fun with textures and patterns in this collection – mixing lace, leather and feathers for a rock-and-roll sensibility.

The colour palette was rich, dark and moody – and every choice was hugely intentional.

“A special shade of burgundy in the dresses is borrowed from the colour of the leather sofas on highly-anticipated journeys by Kyiv-Sevastopol trains,” Frolov wrote in the show notes.

“The green colour in the looks, made in corduroy, a new material for the brand, reminds of pine needles in the rays of sun. The gradient on the Frolov statement corsets reflects my admiration for the Crimean sunsets and the unevenness of the tan on naked bodies.”

Models had tousled hair, smokey eyes and matte lips – which Dominic Skinner, director of make-up artistry at M.A.C Cosmetics, said was “inspired by true 90s it girls” like Pamela Anderson.

Breaking down the beauty look, Skinner said: “Really well-lined lips with a soft, lighter lipstick. The eye is a classic smokey, but do you know what, you’re going out, maybe you’ve had an argument with your friend, you’re sitting in the toilet, wiping your tears and going out and carrying on partying.”

Frolov’s designs are increasingly capturing celebrity attention – Beyoncé wore a custom pink and silver see-through mini dress in Dubai last year, while singers Dua Lipa, Doja Cat and Rita Ora have also worn his clothes.

This collection was still sexy, but had more of a grungier vibe than we’re used to seeing from Frolov – so we have no doubt we’ll be seeming some of these pieces worn by musicians on-stage in the coming months.