Take the slow train south from Bangkok to fall back in love with Thailand

For a proper adventure, ditch the domestic flights and ride the rails to Thailand’s most uncrowded, charming and beautiful corners, says Alex Robinson

Stop off at Hua Hin Railway Station on your journey though central Thailand (Tourism Authority Thailand/Surapol Supawattanakul)

Through the smoke I could see that the dead were rising. Zombies shuffled towards me in zig-zag lurches. Behind them – massive, glittering and carpeted in marigolds, were floats. Sitting high on one was a woman, dressed like a royal Thai princess in luxurious pha biang silk shawls, her head topped with a glittering mirror-mosaic crown. She smiled and waved at the crowds.

One of the zombies – a giant, brandishing a sword and wearing Ray Bans, caught sight of me.

“Farang!’ he shouted, grinning broadly and nudging his friend, “Farang! Welcome to Nakhon!”